Diran Peak is one of the most beautiful and photogenic peaks in the Karakoram Range, known for its snow-covered pyramid shape and stunning views of the surrounding landscape.The first successful ascent of Diran Peak was made in 1968 by an Austrian expedition led by Rainer Goeschl. The team included Rudolf Pischinger and Hanns Schell, both experienced mountaineers.
The Austrian team climbed the peak via the Minapin Glacier and South Ridge, which is now considered the "standard" route. Their success is notable given the challenging terrain, crevasse hazards, and unpredictable weather conditions typical of the Karakoram region.
Expedition Name: Diran peak
Expedition Code: ATP-XP-14
Expedition Zone: Open Zone
Approach route: Islamabad-Gilgit-Minapin-Diran Base camp.
Expedition Grade: Extremely Hard
Duration: 25 Days
Average Daily walk: 5-6 hours
Trekking days (in & out): 12
Hotel Nights: 08
Best Time: May to September
Visa Category: Tourist
Visa Sub Category: Tourist
Permit Requirement: A mountaineering permit is required as the expedition falls in the Open zone.
✈️ You’ll land at Islamabad International Airport and transfer to your hotel. After resting, focus on expedition logistics—attend a briefing detailing gear, permits, and safety protocols essential for climbing Diran Peak. This day sets the tone for your high-altitude adventure.
🚗 Prepare for a long drive—either 10 hours via Babusar Pass (4,173 m) or around 12 hours through Besham. The high mountain pass offers dramatic landscapes and chilling air, gradually shifting you into trekking mindset as you approach Chilas and lower-altitude accommodations.
🏔️ Continue the journey toward Gilgit (approx. 4 hours via Joglot). At around 1,500 m, Gilgit's mid-altitude mountain air brings you closer to the climbing zone, and you’ll confirm logistics for your trek to Minapin.
🚌 Drive 2–3 hours into Nagar Valley, reaching Minapin Village (~2,000 m). This alpine settlement at the foot of the Minapin Glacier is your gateway into the high mountains—an ideal base to stage your approach to the glaciers and alpine zones.
🥾 Trek from Minapin (2 hrs) to Tagafri (~3,800 m). The trail climbs through lush meadows and shepherd huts, offering your first panoramic views of Diran and Rakaposhi. You're now entering true mountain terrain—lush, beautiful, and demanding.
⛺ Continue ascending along the Minapin Glacier toward Diran Base Camp (~3,600 m). Expect crevassed glacier terrain and steadily thinning air. Arrive and settle into camp—your headquarters for acclimatization and climb prep.
🏔️ Take a short altitude hike around Base Camp (to around 4,000 m) to stimulate acclimatization. Explore the glacier shoulders, reinforce technique, and build confidence in moving at height.
🧗 For 11 intensive days, you'll alternate between rest and gradual ascent, establishing Camp I and Camp II as needed (e.g., Camp I ~4,800 m, Camp II ~5,900 m as per standard routes). Use these days for route fixing, training, and judicious summit attempts. Each push should be executed with attention to weather patterns, snowpack, and avalanche risk.
🎉 Return to Base Camp (~4,000 m) for rest, evaluation, and perhaps celebration. Let your body recover while absorbing the alpine surroundings—your efforts so far deserve recognition and resetting for descent.
🥾 Descend the glacier and trail back to Minapin (~2,000 m), fully retracing your ascent route. The lower altitude aids recovery physically and mentally, concluding the high alpine efforts.
🚗 Drive back to Gilgit (3–4 hours) and rest in comfortable lodgings, gearing down from alpine intensity. This segment marks your full return to civilization and chance to debrief with your support team.
✈️ (Optionally) fly back to Islamabad or drive via Naran/Besham. This flexible stock-of-energy day readies you for city life again and marks the completed return leg.
🚌 If driving, you’ll likely transit through scenic Naran and Babusar Pass again, offering one last mountain panorama before ending up back in Islamabad for rest and refueling.
🛌 Recover fully, sort gear, and celebrate with your team. Optional light debriefs and local reflections make this a fulfilling wrap-up before your departure.
✈️ Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for your flight home. Reflect on your triumphant ascent of Diran Peak and the unforgettable alpine adventure you've just completed.
The option of taking a flight to Gilgit after arrival in Islamabad on day 1 is possible depending upon the arrival time of international flight.