Shispare Expedition

Shispare is one of the high peaks of the Batura Muztagh, which is the westernmost sub-range of the Karakoram Range. Shishpare lies east of the Batura Wall, which is the highest part of the Batura Muztagh. The Hunza River curves around the southwest, west, and northwest sides of the Batura Muztagh, and Shispare towers above the western bank of the river. In turn, the Hunza Valley lies in the Gilgit District of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan.

Climbing began in the Batura Muztagh later than in other parts of the Karakoram. Shishpare was the first major peak in the range to be successfully climbed, in 1974, by the “Polish-German Academic Expedition” under the leadership of Janusz Kurczab. The ascent took 35 days, and during preparations for a second group to try for the summit, one member of the expedition (Heinz Borchers) was died in an avalanche.

Day 1 – Arrival in Islamabad ✈️

Touch down in Islamabad, Pakistan’s capital, and settle into your hotel. This day is dedicated to recovering from travel, equipment checks, and final briefings to ensure you’re ready for the high-altitude challenges ahead.

Day 2 – Islamabad → Chilas (via Besham or Babusar Pass) 🛣️

Embark on a long yet scenic drive—via Besham or over the captivating Babusar Pass—through winding mountain roads to Chilas. Located along the Indus River, Chilas serves as your primary staging point before entering the upper Hunza region.

Day 3 – Chilas → Passu or Borith Lake 🚙

Continue your journey deeper into Gilgit-Baltistan, arriving either at the shepherd-village of Passu or the serene Borith Lake. Both destinations are nestled amid towering peaks and mark your transition from road travel to expedition terrain.

Day 4 – Passu/Borith Lake → Luzdur ⛺

From Passu or Borith Lake, drive to the remote village of Luzdur—an isolated settlement surrounded by glaciers and crags. Here, set up your first tented campsite amidst raw Karakoram wilderness, readying yourself for the trek ahead.

Day 5 – Trek: Luzdur → Shispare Base Camp 🥾

Commence the trek from Luzdur toward Shispare Base Camp, typically a 6–7-hour alpine walk across moraine, glacier-fed streams, and rocky stretches. On arrival, establish high-altitude tents and begin acclimatizing to the demanding environment at approximately 3,900 m.

Days 6–35 – Climbing Shispare Peak 🧗

Over the next 30 days, conduct your summit push through fixed-rope glacier traverses, steep ice ridges, and high camps. Work your way up the Southeast/Northeast ridge as per the original 1974 route—utilizing rope ladders and fixed lines where necessary—to conquer the 7,611 m summit. This phase involves rotations between camps for acclimatization, technical ascents, and crucial rest periods.

Day 36 – Descent: Base Camp → Passu 🥾

After summit success, descend back down to Passu in a long but joyous day (approximately 7–8 hours). Return to the comforts of a hotel where you can rest, rehydrate, and reflect on the ascent amidst supportive community.

Day 37 – Passu → Karimabad 🚗

Drive onward to Karimabad, the cultural heart of Hunza Valley. Surrounded by dramatic peaks, this historic town offers a comfortable hotel stay and a chance to experience local hospitality.

Day 38 – Karimabad → Naran (via Babusar Pass) 🛤️

Begin your journey back toward Islamabad via Naran, traversing Babusar Pass once more. This alpine drive transitions through pine forests and mountain meadows before reaching your hotel for overnight rest.

Day 39 – Naran → Islamabad 🚙

Continue your road journey to Islamabad. On arrival, stay in a hotel and prepare for departure—using this day for last-minute equipment repacking or debriefing.

Day 40 – Departure from Islamabad 🛫

Your expedition concludes as you board your flight home. Carry with you breathtaking memories of remote glaciers, the steep rise of Shispare, and the triumph of summitting a technical Karakoram giant.