Shispare Expedition
7611 m
Overview
Shispare is one of the high peaks of the Batura Muztagh, which is the westernmost sub-range of the Karakoram Range. Shishpare lies east of the Batura Wall, which is the highest part of the Batura Muztagh. The Hunza River curves around the southwest, west, and northwest sides of the Batura Muztagh, and Shispare towers above the western bank of the river. In turn, the Hunza Valley lies in the Gilgit District of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan.
Climbing began in the Batura Muztagh later than in other parts of the Karakoram. Shishpare was the first major peak in the range to be successfully climbed, in 1974, by the “Polish-German Academic Expedition” under the leadership of Janusz Kurczab. The ascent took 35 days, and during preparations for a second group to try for the summit, one member of the expedition (Heinz Borchers) was died in an avalanche.
Expedition Facts
Expedition Name: Shishpare 7611m
Expedition Code: ATP-XP-08
Expedition Zone: Open Zone
Approach route: Islamabad-Chilas-Gilgit-Gulmit-Borith Lake- Base Camp-return via same route
Expedition Grade: Extremely Hard
Duration: 40 days
Average Daily walk: 6-7 hours
Trekking days (in & out): 12
Hotel Nights: 07
Best Time: June to August
Visa Category: Mountaineering & Trekking
Visa Sub Category: Mountaineering
Permit Requirement: A mountaineering permit is required as the expedition falls in the restricted zone.
Gallery
Itinerary
Arrival in Islamabad, transfer to hotel. 500m, Hotel
Day 2. Islamabad–ChilasDrive to Chilas via Besham (10-11 hours) or Babusar Pass (10 hours). Hotel
Day 3. Chilas–PassuDrive to Passu or Borith Lake. Hotel
Day 4. LuzdurDrive to Luzdur (5-6 hours). Tents
Day 5. Luzdur–ShisphareTrek to Luzdur–Shishpare BC (6-7 hours). Tents
Days 6–35. ClimbingClimbing Tents
Day 36. PassuTrek back to Passu (7-8 hours). Hotel
Day 37. Passu–KarimabadDrive to Karimabad. Hotel
Day 38. Karimabad–NaranDrive to Naran via Babusar Pass. Hotel
Day 39. Naran–IslamabadDrive to Islamabad Hotel
Day 40. Hotel–AirportHomebound flight