Tirich Mir Expedition

This is a chain of peaks. Tirich Mir (Main) is the highest peak in whole of the Hindukush range. The traditional route to the peak passes through Chitral – Reshun and Khosht. There is also a shorter route to the peak. After a two-hour jeep drive on Chitral-Mastuj road one has to take a direct route from Perpish to Barum village and then through the glacier of the same name (Barum) to the peak. This route is, however, recommended for those who have already acclimatised themselves with high-altitude-climbing; otherwise there is a great danger of high altitude sickness.

Tirich Mir Main Peak was climbed for the first time in 1950 by a Norwegian expedition led by Arne Naess. The other members of the expedition included P. Kvern Berg and H. Berg. Arne Naess again led the successful Norwegian venture to Tirich Mir East (7,692 meters) in 1964, two members of the expedition R. Hoibakk and A. Opdal, reached top of Tirich Mir (E).

Tirich Mir West II (7,500meters) was climbed in 1974 by Beppe Re and Guido Machetto of an Italian expedition. The party also climbed an already-climbed Dirgol Zom peak. Tirich Mir West I (7,487meters) was climbed in 1967 by a Czechoslovak expedition led by Vladimir Smida. The party is stated to have climbed it by the north-west col. J. Cervinka, I. Galfy, V. Smida and I. Urbanovic reached the top.

Day 1 – Arrival in Islamabad 🏙️

You’ll be warmly welcomed at Islamabad International Airport and transferred to a centrally located hotel. Here, you’ll review the expedition plan, meet the Liaison Officer, and finalize last-minute logistics — all crucial before heading into the high mountains.

Day 2 – Transfer to Chitral via Loweri Tunnel 🚗

After breakfast, begin your overland journey to Chitral via the scenic Loweri Tunnel. The dramatic descent into the Chitral Valley prepares your senses for the remoteness ahead. Overnight in Chitral allows for final acclimatization and gear checks.

Day 3 – Jeep to Shagrom Village 🏞️

Drive 6–7 hours through rugged terrain to reach Shagrom, the last permanent settlement before the mountains. The stark alpine landscape greets you here, signaling the transition from civilization to pure mountaineering. Camp overnight and prepare for trek ahead.

Day 4 – Trek to Shemlak ⛰️

From Shagrom, tackle your first high-altitude trekking day en route to Shemlak. The trail climbs steadily through rocky moraines and coarse scree. Set up camp in this quiet bivouac zone and recalibrate for altitude.

Day 5 – Trek to Babu Camp (Tirich Mir Base Camp) at ~4,724 m 🏔️

Trek beside glacier moraines, navigating icy terrain and shifting gravel, reaching Babu Camp—the established base camp named for local guide Babu Mohammed, perched at about 4,724 m. This is where your alpine campaign truly begins.

Day 6–8 – Acclimatization & Reconnaissance at Babu Camp 🔭

Spend several days exploring altitudinal hikes around Base Camp for acclimatization. Scout nearby ridges, routes, and the glacier’s features. Prepare mentally and physically for technical climbs ahead — fixed lines, steep snow, and ice slopes.

Day 9–24 – Load Carries & High-Camp Rotations (Alpine-Style) ⁠— Camps Above Base Camp ⛏️

Begin alpine rotations: establish Camp I, II, etc., ascending progressively higher each day. Carry gear on steep slopes of snow and ice, emplacing camps strategically for summit push. Monitor weather windows carefully. Rotate back to Base Camp between carries to rest, consolidate, and strike when summit conditions align.

Day 25 – Summit Push to 7,708 m 🧗‍♂️

Embark on the final ascent from your highest camp. Navigate steep glacier, snow slopes, and possible ice sections. Summit Tirich Mir, the highest of the Hindu Kush and the tallest mountain in the world outside of the Himalaya–Karakoram. Revel in the isolation, the drama, and the vastness — then descend safely back to high camp or base.

Day 26–28 – Descent to Base Camp & Pack-Up ⛺

Descend carefully, decommissioning high camps, collecting gear, and retracing your path back to Babu Camp. Reflect on the mountain’s challenges and your achievement as you breathe easier at 4,700 m.

Day 29 – Trek Back to Shemlak 🥾

Follow the glacier and moraine trails back down. The gradient eases, but keep focused—this is part of the climb.

Day 30 – Trek to Shagrom & Jeep Ride Out 🚙

Descend further to Shagrom, then ride out by jeep. The world of stone and ice fades into villages and valleys. You're heading back toward civilization.

Day 31 – Drive Back to Chitral & Overnight Rest 🏕️

Return to Chitral for a well-deserved rest. Share stories around the campfire, enjoy simple meals, and begin the journey home.

Day 32 – Drive to Islamabad 🚘

After breakfast, journey back to Islamabad—either by road or flight, as weather allows. Transfer to the airport or a comfortable hotel, completing the expedition. A final debrief at the Alpine Club of Pakistan offers closure.

Day 33 – Departure from Islamabad 🛫🇵🇰

Transfer to Islamabad Airport for your international flight home, filled with unforgettable memories and the pride of standing beneath (or atop) one of the world’s most beautiful peaks.