Rakaposhi Expedition

Situated in Nagar Valley facing Hunza, it is one of the magnificent pyramids in the world. The peak can be climbed from all sides. Dominating the horizon it is constantly visible from the Karakoram Highway. The scene from Hunza is awesome and beyond description. Its perpetual glacier adds thrill of delight that belongs to the beauty of Hunza.

In 1892, Martin Conway explored this peak though he could not find way to summit. On June 25, 1958 a British/Pakistani joint expedition members Mike Banks and Tom Patey of UK reached the summit. The North Spur was climbed on August 2, 1979 by Eiho Ohtani and Matsushi Yamashita of Waseda University Japan.

Day 1. Arrival in Islamabad 🛬🏙️

Arrive at Islamabad International Airport. After clearing immigration and customs, you’ll be greeted by our staff and transferred to your hotel. Depending on your arrival time, we'll take a short city tour to explore Rawalpindi’s bustling bazaars and Islamabad’s landmarks like Faisal Mosque and Daman-e-Koh. Overnight stay at hotel.

Day 2. Drive to Chilas via Naran or Besham 🚗⛰️

An early morning departure for Chilas via the scenic Babusar Pass (if open) or the longer Karakoram Highway through Besham. The journey offers dramatic views of lush valleys, the Indus River, and glimpses of distant peaks. Arrive in Chilas by evening and check into a local hotel.

Day 3. Drive to Jaglot 🚙🌄

Today’s drive is a shorter one—around 3 hours—from Chilas to Jaglot, a small town nestled at the junction of the Indus and Gilgit Rivers. This is the last point accessible by road before the trek begins. Final equipment checks and briefing. Overnight in a guesthouse or camp.

Day 4–5. Trek to Rakaposhi Base Camp ⛺🥾

Begin the exhilarating trek from Jaglot through terraced fields, pine forests, and alpine meadows. Cross the Hinarche Glacier and climb gradually to Rakaposhi Base Camp (~3,500m), beautifully located with front-row views of the mighty peak. Day 5 is reserved for acclimatization, light hikes, and gear organization. Camp overnight.

Days 6–34. Climbing Period – Rakaposhi Summit Bid 🧗‍♂️❄️

A 29-day period is allocated for the summit push via the Northwest Ridge (Normal Route). Establish a series of high camps:
Camp I (~4,800m)
Camp II (~5,800m)
Camp III (~6,500m)
Depending on weather and team condition, you’ll make several carries between camps and wait for favorable summit windows. The summit attempt rewards you with jaw-dropping views over the entire Karakoram and Hindukush ranges. Expect ice walls, crevasses, and serac zones. All nights are in tents during this climbing phase.

Day 35. Descent to Jaglot 🥾🌲

After a successful summit (or a valiant attempt), descend from Base Camp back to Jaglot, retracing your steps through the glacier and alpine trails. Celebrate with your support crew and rest. Overnight in tents.

Day 36. Drive to Gilgit 🚙🏞️

Drive along the Karakoram Highway to the regional hub of Gilgit. After weeks in the mountains, you’ll enjoy the return of civilization—hot showers, fresh food, and a comfortable bed! Overnight in hotel.

Day 37. Fly or Drive to Islamabad ✈️🛣️

Take a scenic flight over the Karakoram (weather permitting) to Islamabad, or drive via Naran or Besham in case of flight cancellation. Overnight in hotel.

Day 38. Leisure Day in Islamabad 🕌🛍️

A well-earned free day in Islamabad. Optional activities include visiting Lok Virsa Museum, Pakistan Monument, or shopping for souvenirs in Saidpur Village or Centaurus Mall. Overnight in hotel.

Day 39. Contingency/Reserve Day 🗓️☀️

An additional day is kept in reserve for delays due to bad weather, extended summit attempts, or road closures. Overnight in hotel.

Day 40. Departure from Islamabad 🛫🇵🇰

Transfer to Islamabad Airport for your international flight home, filled with unforgettable memories and the pride of standing beneath (or atop) one of the world’s most beautiful peaks.

Scenic Approaches Beyond Jaglot 🏔️✨ 

While the Jaglot route is a classic approach to Rakaposhi's northwestern face, climbers and trekkers also explore other base camps located on different flanks of the mountain. These alternate routes offer distinct landscapes and access points, each contributing to the mystique of this iconic Karakoram peak:

Ghulmet Base Camp (via Ghulmet Village, Nagar Valley)

This approach leads to the southwestern flank of Rakaposhi and offers closer views of the impressive south face. The route ascends from Ghulmet village through summer pastures and glacier terrain. Though less commonly used for climbing expeditions, it's a rewarding trekking route offering panoramic views and cultural encounters with local herders.

Taghafari Base Camp (via Minapin Village)

Perhaps the most popular and scenic trekking route to Rakaposhi, this approach follows a well-trodden trail from Minapin to Taghafari (approx. 3,500m). It does not serve as a staging point for summit expeditions but offers breathtaking views of Rakaposhi’s massive ice wall. This is ideal for trekkers and photographers rather than climbers aiming for the summit.

Danyor Base Camp (via Danyor, Gilgit side)

This lesser-known eastern approach leads to the Danyor Glacier and provides access to the rarely attempted eastern ridges of Rakaposhi. It is more remote and challenging, with difficult glacier navigation and limited trail infrastructure. This route is typically used for exploratory or scientific expeditions rather than standard climbs. A successful ascent of Rakaposhi from Danyor BC took place in 2019. World-class Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima tackled the unclimbed south face before transitioning to the southeast ridge. Both climbers utilised services provided by ATP.