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7885 m
Overview
Distaghil Sar is a massive peak in the Hispar Muztagh sub-range of the Karakoram, Pakistan. It is the highest mountain in this range and one of the tallest in Pakistan, known for its isolated and rugged beauty.
There are three summits of this peak, North 7,885 meters, Central 7,760 meters and South 7,696 meters.
1960: First ascent by a German-Austrian expedition. The climbers—Günther Stärker, Diether Marchart, and Wolfgang Georgi—reached the summit via the south face, marking a significant achievement in Karakoram mountaineering.
Subsequent Attempts:
Multiple expeditions have targeted the various summits of Distaghil Sar, but most have been turned back by bad weather, difficult terrain, and logistical challenges.
The East and West peaks have also been climbed, though these ascents are much less documented compared to the main summit.
Expedition Facts
Expedition Name: Distaghil Sar
Expedition Code: ATP-XP-13
Expedition Zone: Restricted Zone
Approach route: Islamabad-Skardu-Askole-Hispar Pass
Expedition Grade: Extremely Hard
Duration: 40 days
Average Daily walk: 6-7 hours
Trekking days (in & out): 12
Hotel Nights: 08
Best Time: May to August
Visa Category: Mountaineering & Trekking
Visa Sub Category: Mountaineering
Permit Requirement: A mountaineering permit is required as the expedition falls in the restricted zone.
Gallery
Expedition locations on map
Itinerary
Day 1. Islamabad
Arrival in Islamabad, transfer to hotel. 500m, Hotel
Day 2. Islamabad–GilgitFlight to Gilgit (1 hour) or drive to Chilas. (10-12 hours) 2300m, Hotel
Day 3. Chilas–GilgitReserve day or drive from Chilas to Gilgit. (7-8 hours) 2300m, Hotel
Day 4. GilgitDay for final preparations. 2300m, Hotel
Day 5. Gilgit–Hispar VillageJeep drive to Hispar Village (6 hours). 3000m, Tents
Day 6. Hispar Village–BitanmalTrek to Bitanmal (5-6 hours). 3800m, Tents
Day 7. Bitanmal–Distaghil Sar BCTrek to Distaghil Sar BC (6-7 hours). 4600m, Tents
Day 8–13. Distaghil Sar BCAcclimatisation and reconnaissance of the climbing route, with potential for shorter acclimatisation climbs.
Day 14–22. Climbing Distaghil SarFocus on the summit push, with fixed camps established along the route.
Day 22. Climbing Distaghil SarIf successful, descend from the summit and return to base camp.
Day 23. Distaghil Sar BC–BitanmalTrek to Bitanmal (5-6 hours). 3800m, Tents
Day 24. Bitanmal–Hispar VillageTrek to Hispar Village (6 hours). 3000m, Tents
Day 25. Hispar Village–GilgitJeep drive to Hispar Village (6 hours). 2300m, Hotel
Day 26. Gilgit–ChilasTrek to Paiju. Tents
Day 27. Chilas–IslamabadDrive to Islamabad, transfer to hotel. 500m, Hotel
Day 28. Departure to home.Transfer to airport for homeward flight.
Note:
The option of taking a flight to Skardu after arrival in Islamabad on day 1 is possible depending upon the arrival time of international flight.
If the flight operates for Skardu on day 2, drive to Askole on day-4 is possible to gain an extra day for climbing/acclimatisation.
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