Distaghil Sar is a massive peak in the Hispar Muztagh sub-range of the Karakoram, Pakistan. It is the highest mountain in this range and one of the tallest in Pakistan, known for its isolated and rugged beauty.
There are three summits of this peak, North 7,885 meters, Central 7,760 meters and South 7,696 meters.
1960: First ascent by a German-Austrian expedition. The climbers—Günther Stärker, Diether Marchart, and Wolfgang Georgi—reached the summit via the south face, marking a significant achievement in Karakoram mountaineering.
Subsequent Attempts:
Multiple expeditions have targeted the various summits of Distaghil Sar, but most have been turned back by bad weather, difficult terrain, and logistical challenges.
The East and West peaks have also been climbed, though these ascents are much less documented compared to the main summit.
Expedition Name: Distaghil Sar
Expedition Code: ATP-XP-13
Expedition Zone: Restricted Zone
Approach route: Islamabad-Skardu-Askole-Hispar Pass
Expedition Grade: Extremely Hard
Duration: 40 days
Average Daily walk: 6-7 hours
Trekking days (in & out): 12
Hotel Nights: 08
Best Time: May to August
Visa Category: Mountaineering & Trekking
Visa Sub Category: Mountaineering
Permit Requirement: A mountaineering permit is required as the expedition falls in the restricted zone.
Touching down in Islamabad, you'll be warmly welcomed and transferred to your hotel to settle in. Use this time to relax, acclimate to local energy, and enjoy your first taste of Pakistani hospitality before the adventure truly begins.
Fly over dramatic mountainous landscapes to Gilgit (about an hour), or take a long yet picturesque drive through Chilas (10–12 hours). Either way, this marks your first venture into the heart of Gilgit‑Baltistan, where anticipation for the climb builds.
Spend an extra day in Gilgit to catch up on rest, equipment checks, and final preparations—or use it simply to explore the local culture if you're arriving by road. This buffer day ensures you're well-adjusted before heading higher.
A full day dedicated to final gear checks, logistics, and orientation. Ensure your climbing kit, acclimatisation plan, and team briefing are all in order. Key for a safe and successful expedition ahead.
From Gilgit, a scenic 6-hour jeep ride carries you to Hispar Village (approx. 3,000 m). Traverse rugged terrain, cross rivers, and absorb the village’s wild charm as you begin your trek’s true entry point.
Embark on a 5–6 hour trek from Hispar Village to Bitanmal (around 3,800 m). The rise in altitude tightens the air and heightens the sense of remoteness—your first real taste of the Karakoram wilderness.
Continue trekking (6–7 hours) to the base camp, nestled at 4,600 m. Expect glacier approaches, high-altitude silence, and looming views of the imposing summit—your home for the critical climb ahead.
Spend these days acclimatising and scouting routes. Short practice climbs, glacier navigation drills, and preparing equipment for summit push are key. Every day builds both physical readiness and mental focus.
Launch your climb: establish higher camps, navigate snow slopes, fix ropes, and approach the summit. These are the most demanding yet exhilarating days. At the peak, embrace one of the most remote and awe‑inspiring views on Earth.
After summiting, you descend back to Bitanmal. Gradual altitude loss, but still trekking on high‑altitude terrain—reflect on your achievement as you head toward lower camps.
Another day of descent, returning to the relative comfort of Hispar Village. Celebrate progress with porters and guides as the landscape gradually shifts from alpine to mountain valley.
Board jeeps back to Gilgit (approx. 6 hours). Swap alpine views for green valley routes, and settle back into a hotel—with gastrointestinal delights and showers welcomed after weeks of rugged living.
Either drive to Chilas, or continue all the way to Islamabad. Spend the evening reminiscing, swapping photos, and celebrating the summit with your team.
After breakfast, you'll be transferred to the airport for your journey home—carrying the memories, the stories, and the majesty of Distaghil Sar with you.
The option of taking a flight to Skardu after arrival in Islamabad on day 1 is possible depending upon the arrival time of international flight.
If the flight operates for Skardu on day 2, drive to Askole on day-4 is possible to gain an extra day for climbing/acclimatisation.